Modales

Modales Wines is a boutique winery located in Fennville, Michigan, with a founding story rooted in the region’s agricultural heritage. Owners Jim and Carol Gonzalez entered the wine scene in 2014 when they purchased the historic La Esperanza Vineyard, a site near Lake Michigan that had been planted with grapevines (alongside peach and cherry orchards) over a century prior. Initially, their goal was simply to be quality grape farmers selling fruit to local wineries. However, after seeing wines made from their grapes win awards for others, the couple decided to take things to the next level and make their own wine. In 2016, they acquired an additional 75-acre farm in Fennville – christened La Gracia – with the vision of crafting premium Michigan wines and restoring the land to health and vigor. To realize this vision, the Gonzalezes hired winemaker Andrew Backlin, who brought experience from Northern California’s Duckhorn and Steele Wines, and broke ground on a production facility. By 2019, Modales Wines opened its doors to the public. The winery’s name, “Modales,” hints at the Spanish word for manners or customs, and their ethos reflects a blend of tradition and innovation. Modales’ mission is clear: “redefining the perceptions of Michigan wine, challenging convention & elevating expectations.” Their motto, “Every Vine, Every Guest, Treasured”, underscores a dual commitment to attentive vineyard care and warm hospitality. Today, Modales stands out as one of Michigan’s only certified organic wineries, a status that showcases its commitment to purposeful, quality-driven winemaking.

Vineyard and Winemaking Process

Location and Terroir
Modales is situated in the heart of the Fennville American Viticultural Area (AVA) in Southwest Michigan. Notably, Fennville was the state’s first AVA, established in 1981, thanks to its distinct microclimate. The vineyards lie just a few miles from Lake Michigan, whose cooling breezes and moderated temperatures create an ideal cool-climate grape-growing environment. The soil is glacial in origin – a mix of sand and clay – and varies between the estate’s two main vineyard sites. The original La Esperanza vineyard, only about a mile from the lakeshore, has heavy clay soils yielding concentrated, mineral-rich wines. In contrast, the newer La Gracia vineyard further inland features sandier soils that produce livelier wines with bright fruit character. Together these sites encompass roughly 40 acres under vine (within a 76-acre farm), forming the foundation for Modales’ estate-grown grapes and supporting the production of complex red wines.

Grape Varieties
In this cool climate terroir, Modales cultivates an impressive range of grape varieties. Established vinifera grapes include regional staples like Riesling and Chardonnay, classic reds like Pinot Noir, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc, and even newly planted Gamay. What truly sets Modales apart is their experimental spirit – they are growing lesser-seen varieties such as Rkatsiteli, Semillon, Alicante Bouschet, Teroldego, Lagrein, Tannat, Petit Manseng, and Blaufränkisch (Lemberger). Few wineries in the Midwest attempt such diverse plantings. This experimental block signals Modales’ ambition to push the boundaries of Michigan viticulture and showcases their forward-thinking approach.

Farming Philosophy
Modales farms its vineyards with a strong emphasis on sustainability and organic practices. Vineyard manager Ben Guerrin spearheaded a transition away from decades of conventional farming, achieving official organic certification for the estate in 2024. In practical terms, this means no synthetic pesticides or fertilizers are used; instead, they employ cover cropping and green manure to enrich soil, and integrate animals and insects for natural vineyard management. For example, Modales uses “woolly lawnmowers” (sheep) to trim cover crops, installs bluebird boxes and raptor perches to encourage natural pest predators, and fosters beneficial insect habitat. These regenerative practices have created a thriving ecosystem in the vines, resulting in healthier plants that better resist disease and stress. As the team puts it, “healthy vines translate to better quality wine”, and a healthy vineyard even contributes native yeasts for fermentation, reducing the need for intervention in the cellar.

Winemaking Approach
In the winery, Modales follows a minimal-intervention philosophy that complements its vineyard work. Winemaker Andrew Backlin allows many fermentations to proceed with those native yeasts from the vineyard, enhancing the expression of terroir in the wines. The winery focuses on “cool climate, terroir-driven wines” that capture the essence of their Fennville origin. Modern techniques are balanced with traditional wisdom: for instance, certain wines see fermentation or aging in neutral oak to add texture without overpowering delicate aromatics. By eschewing “cheap tricks or heavy cellar intervention” and instead having faith in what the fruit can express, Modales crafts wines that honestly reflect their origin.